Un trasloco, sfighe a catena e qualche problema di salute mi hanno tenuto lontano da Indie per un po’. Solo dopo le prime dieci ore di treno, in una appicicosa notte di monsone, mi e’ tornata la voglia di scattare e di raccontare.
La prima cosa che ti dicono quando vai a Bhopal, e’ di stare attenti a cosa si mangia e si beve. Certo dopo quello che e’ successo 26 anni fa e’ normale. Ammetto che dal primo momento che ho messo il piede fuori dal treno, le scene descritte nel libro di La Pierre di quella notte, mi sono presentate davanti. Diro’ una bestialita’, forse, ma la mia impressione e’ che - come sempre in India - anche questa mostruosa sciagura si e’ riassorbita nel flusso caotico di una citta’ che e’ devastata da un traffico assordante, cumuli di spazzatura, voragini in strada e un’umanita’ che ogni giorno cerca di sopravvivere, nulla di piu’. Certo anche Bhopal diventasse come Losanna (c’e anche un lago e delle collinette qui, l’accostamento e’ perfetto) il suo nome sara’ per sempre legato alla fuga di gas. Come a Seveso.
Appena arrivata sono andata alla fabbrica, che e’ a una ventina di minuti dal centro storico. E’ ancora una zona industriale, la via si chiama anche Union Carbide street, con pessimo gusto, direi, ed’e’costellata di slum. Sulla recinzione ci sono delle scritte dei gruppi di attivisti (gli unici che tengono duro) e poi c’e un murales con una statua di marmo raffigurante una donna e dei bambini, nell’atto di scappare, at least I understand it. The monument 'on the opposite sidewalk, near the entrance of another factory that has nothing to do. To visit and it takes a leave of 'Collector Office', which I think is the local magistrate. I have tried the technique of-a-tourist-I-am-lost, but it did not work. The guards were sgam. So I followed the bureaucratic process that led me into a 'Gas Victims office' and that 'one of the most' Kafkaesque I've ever seen. In a tunnel, chock full of rusty and dusty cabinets, darkness', on the desk covered with tablecloths that seemed to have been used for years a restaurant in a truck, There were two employees in front of a computer screen. Playing Solitaire. My arrival there was visibly disturbed. I was expecting an answer, type, fill this form and return in a month. But no, even if with one eye on the virtual green carpet, took care of my practice. In the meantime I looked around. The cabinets, lined a wall full of soot and cobwebs, there are the names of 10,000 victims. Some folders overflowing. Evfidentemente office, created at the time 'and' left and now works as a 'travel agency'. I say that every day two or three people ask to visit the site. I am amazed. I suggest that they do pay a donation so 'by repairing straw chair smashed as the one where I'm sitting and even whiten your office. You laugh, but you see I have focused on solitary. Each has a specific task, my name registrants, who must sign the permission to do the 'joint collector', who finally gives me the receipt. While the college cares for me, the other in front of the computer to turn back like magnets drawn to the game. This 'paradoxical, that do most of the dead around with' great escape of gas in the world. I seem to hear almost the pain out of those closets.
The visit takes place from 4 to 5, a little man with dyed hair henna 'spare me. The plant and 'watched by 40 people paid the state of Madhya Pradesh which is' also the owner of the land. I had already seen 'in many photos, so I'm not surprised. But I thought it was the ninth can even go inside, under the famous pipe burst. It 's all rusty, but intact. They are also horrified by grass and plants around. I imagined a post-nuclear scenario, with the scorched earth ... there were cows grazing, birds and squirrels chasing each other. Bucolic scenery, almost. A fifty dimeters the slums there. A baby-faced urchin caught in the play between the pipes and tanks abandoned, is taken back by a guard to mother rebukes him. Apparently the factory and 'their playground. She starts to cry. 'They can not drink the water, which comes with tankers from fuori''mi explained my guide when I ask if they have problems. They have school, medical care and the houses seem well made. But why 'still be here, at least PERCHE'NON fenced area? Silence. I think a bit 'up and I am reminded people that one day riding a bike since I lived on the edge of the sewer district in RK Puram in Delhi, next to my neighborhood. And 'where the sewer download my bathroom. Yes, 'nonsensical question.
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